After our epic day we had a walking safari scheduled prior to our (we thought) 1400 flight Diani Beach via Nairobi. More on that later.

I got up at dawn, as usual, and got a few shots of the Mara waking up from our “tent.”

We were expecting breakfast at 0630, so I took some time to pack while my new assistant worked on the blog.

After breakfast we headed up to the lodge to meet our guides. Unlike previous walking safaris, we had our usual guide (Daniel) and a few armed escorts from the lodge’s scout team, including the Moses, the camp’s scout team leader. Moses speaks Maa, but isn’t Maasai. He comes from the north of Kenya, a member of the Samburu tribe. Dennis was a man of few words but what appeared to be a functional AK.

They walked us down to the dining room for a safety briefing, then we were under way. We got a ton of lessons from Daniel and Moses on how the tribes work, how various plants are put to practical uses, and how to track based on dung and animal prints.

We had about a 3 mile walk over very varied terrain. Nicholas was scouting ahead with the land cruisers in case of dangerous animals or route changes that could help us see more, but all in all it was a pretty relaxed and enjoyable walk up the valley into the hills.

The goal of the walk was the Maasai caves, which young warriors use to plan attacks or hunts, share information, overnight while they are shepherding their herds, etc.

As we got closer to the caves we got into baboon territory. We spotted a few, but wow could you smell them. There was also plenty of evidence of other animals.

As we got near the caves, the trail became much more slippery and treacherous. I have good hiking shoes and they usually have awesome traction, but this rock, especially once wet, was like ice. So we had to choose our paths carefully.

Our guides encouraged us along, and we got to the caves. Super cool. There was a very active bee’s nest with a smoking stick at its mouth and a still smoldering fire, along with some Maasai cloths indicating the camp had been used the prior night.

After 20 minutes or so hanging out and learning about the caves we headed back – more treacherous than up.

But before long we were back on level ground.

The hike returning to the lodge was pretty uneventful, modulo more flower pics.

By 1015 we had arrived back at camp. We could see our table already set for what was sure to be another amazing lunch….

Now, we had an hour to shower, change, and pack before lunch and our leisurely trip to catch our flight to Diani Beach. I was packing up my computer and went to check in on my diving plans for Diani, and found a nice mail from Cheli and Peacock which confirmed diving and added “also, your flights to Diani have changed, we informed your lodge” – we were supposed to take off at 11, not 2. (I believe the issue was the connection in Nairobi was misinterpreted as the local flight – that connection left Nairobi at 2).

I rang the front desk and they said they would call back. I showered quickly and started shoving things into bags. Sure enough Lawrence called back and said yep we have an issue but we are going to run you to a nearby airstrip sorry no lunch and we need to leave immediately.

Pascal came and grabbed our bags and we said our thanks and goodbyes as we heard our flight pass overhead and went to full “careen” in the land cruiser, leaving the reserve on the back… wildebeest trail? And then absolutely bombing down the local roads while Lawrence kept shouting “Nicholas! Hurrry! NICHOLAS!” over the CB!

Nicholas was too busy white knuckling the Land Cruiser to answer and we just held on for dear life and laughed while old Maasai farmers shook their heads and tsk tsk’ed at us, and occasionally glanced behind us to make sure Daniel hadn’t been bounced out of the back seat.

I think Lawrence was nearly in tears (I am sure the pilot was threatening to leave) by the time Nicholas pulled us up to the SafariLink Cessna Grand Caravan waiting for us. He told Lawrence we had arrived, handed us lunch bags (Samosas! Yumm) and we said our quick goodbyes and loaded up.

We bopped to two more airstrips picking people up until we were a completely full flight, then made the hop to Nairobi. In Nairobi we went to a waiting room briefly – less than 20% mask compliance and zero enforcement. Again, in transit you have to mask in self-defense mode – no-one (well only 20%) is willing to have their face be uncomfortable to stop others from dying. Half the officials are unmasked too.

Boarded a Dash-8 and enjoyed a relatively quick flight down to Diani beach. Got out and we’re greeted by our ground transportation from Cheli and Peacock, then to our car (Land Rover … uh oh) from Alfajiri.

Another 15 mins through the many vendor shacks of Diani beach and we were winding down a beautiful tree lined road that ended at a gate marked Alfajiri. We had arrived.

We were greeted at the gate by the incredibly gracious and charming hostess, Sofia. Passing into Alfajiri is, forgive the hyperbole, a little like passing into paradise. The spaces are all designed and, as it turns out, the furniture hand crafted on site for the spaces they will occupy. All areas are appointed by incredible antiques or objects d’art.

The breeze blows up from the beach amongst the flowering trees and the Indian Ocean stretches out into infinity. It really is all that.

Sofia breezily said (and I think any novel based on her would feature that prominently… ‘Breezily, …’) “I know you had booked the beach house but I upgraded you to the Cliff house because, why not? You will enjoy the views from the turret.”

I was wondering “which suite is ours?” when I realized, nope, the whole place, private pool and all, was at our disposal. She introduced us to our butler, Duncan, and got him going on “something to tide you over – maybe just a cheese sandwich?” and started discussing menus.

Now, the thing is Alfajiri’s founders are Italian (more on this later) and recipe ideas (all from her family) trip off the tongue and, in that Italian accent and with Sofia’s “how about this? Sure, why not…” demeanor every single thing she mentioned sounded like the most amazing thing I would ever eat. And mostly, as it turned out, it was.

Sofia set our schedule and menus for the next day, then took her leave. We settled into our room, then onto the second floor veranda to relax from our flights.

Our amazing panini grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches and fruit arrived, and we gnoshed away, dashing this poor fellow’s hopes.

A few hours of mostly staring at the ocean later, we were summoned to appetizers (bruschetta) with our g&t, then pasta (a simple but perfect spaghetti and tomato sauce), followed by calamari swimming in coconut milk, all with an amazing green salad, then followed by a chocolate crepe with chocolate sauce. All of this scratch made, home made, flawless (and of course, served with perfect wines).

Very sated, we turned in so I could be ready for diving in the morning.